Yesterday from morning to midnight we had a second big snowfall over Tokyo. It is said that we got about 10cm but looking out of my window the morning after I think it was a lot more in some places. I was out and about in the early evening around Aoyama and Omotesando and luckily I had my camera. Both me and my camera were thoroughly soaked after a few minutes in the snow and I had to stop in doorways every few meters just to wipe of the lens as it got covered in snow within seconds. As usual though the subways were doing well but hundreds of flights were cancelled, the shinkansen trains ran on reduced speeds and several highways were closed. It seems that we will be blessed with interesting weather this year!
The AO Building in Aoyama looked great in the snow (here are some photos of it in daylight and here are some at night), whereas Omotseando came out even rougher in the storm (compare with these photos from last December). The Taro Okamoto statue outside of the Kodomo no Shiro building in Aoyama looked regal, I have blogged about one of his paintings before, The Myth of Tomorrow which was featured in a very good Internet hoax).
In Tokyo’s Aoyama/Omotesando district there are tons of hidden gems for tourists and local that stray off the big roads and enter the maze of tiny streets and alley where the real heart of Aoyama is. Despite Aoyama being one of the most famous address in Tokyo, it feels very secluded and remarkably empty to wander around the back streets at any time of the day. The streets are absolutely loaded with top notch boutiques, fashionable hair dressers and great tiny (and not even that expensive) bars and restaurants. I guess it must the fear of getting lost that keeps people away because even after visiting the are dozens of times I still have to keep a mental track of where I am going and in which direction I am heading. But there is no harm in getting lost and wherever you end up is bound to be good, whether it is Omotesando, Shibuya or Harajuku.
A few weeks ago I took a wrong turn on my way home late one night and stumbled upon the Portofino center. It was just after a major rain and the rather splendid architecture with the wooden details were shining in the light reflected from the street lights. It felt like I had stumbled upon a hidden treasure! I returned a few day later and took these photos of the Portofino buildings, and of the wedding hall so beautifully reflected in the windows. The Saint Grace Cathedral (which of course is not a real Cathedral, it is just the name of the building and the wedding event planning company that runs it. Japanese people are quite in love with the romantic idea of a gorgeous western wedding so all around Japan there are these little faux churches to cater to the soon to be wedded couples. Although it might look a little like a movie prop, the place looks fantastic when used in wedding ceremonies and considering the costs involved in flying a wedding party to a proper church abroad, it is quite reasonable (and ecological). Almost every night you can see couples practicing for the wedding ceremony or doing the photo shoots in the beautifully lit night.
The easiest way to find this place is to go to Ao Building in Aoyama, and then turn left just to the side of it, walk straight into the maze of streets and keep an eye out for the towers. It is easier to find at night! The place is quite new and not very established yet but there are restaurants, clinics and wine bars, so far.
The other day, walking around the backstreets of Omotesando I noticed the many vacant lots and alleyways in the city, and I suddenly saw all manner of things filling up the space left by the buildings that once stood there, the gaps in-between. I think this could be an interesting subject for a photo book about Tokyo, Gaps. Vacant lots. Spaces. Buldings peeking through other buildings or the ghosts of other buildings long gone. Tokyo Gaps. Now if only I could find 6-7 extra hours to attach to each day and I’d be ready to search the city!
During the exceptionally sunny and warm Saturday we had quite a few anti-nuclear power demonstrations all around Japan, and especially in Tokyo. Here is one of the many groups I saw during the day. There were thousands, maybe tens of thousands of people on the march to protest the nuclear power industry of Japan, but in typical Japanese fashion they were divided into many smaller groups of only a few hundreds to allow for traffic and a smoother management by police who did their best to make sure that the protesters and local traffic did not have to interrupt each other more than necessary. The police you see is not stopping them and the masks are not because they have something to hide but because we are in the middle of the hay fever season: this year the pollen is exceptionally severe! You can read more about it here.