It’s been two years since the big earthquake struck the north east region of Japan. It was certainly a life changing event for everyone in the region, and also for many of us who lived hundreds of kilometers away. The same evening they opened the highway I was on my way. The strongest memory I have (rather silly but something that I can never wash out of my head) is the stench of the mud that covered everything, and got worse the closer to the destruction you got. All of these photos were taken more than 3 weeks after the earthquake, by which time many of the roads had been cleared.
There are still massive amounts of work to do to bring the tsunami hit areas back to something resembling a normal situation and a lot of people are critical of the pace of the government, but having been up there I am not surprised that things are taking time. It’s not even the seemingly straight forward question of rebuilding everything that was destroyed, we also need to consider for what reason we are rebuilding and how.
1. A train caught by the tsunami lies across a cemetary on top of a 24m tall hill overlooking Onagawa town, Miyagi prefecture. 2. A ship lies across a concrete building, on top of a car in Kesenuma city, Miyagi prefecture. 3. A tent to house a temporary morgue in Shiogama city, Miyagi prefecture. 4. A long distance travel coach washed off the highway south of Kesennuma city, Miyagi prefecture. I don’t know about survivors. 5. An announcement of the result of a building survey at what remains of the Saito residence, only the front gate pillar, Shiogama city, Miyagi prefecture. 6. Refugees at a temporary shelter in local high school, Higashimatsushima city, Miyagi prefecture. 7. Plum flowers in full bloom, outside Zuiganji Temple at Matsushima town, Miyagi prefecture. 8. Large vessel washed onto the harbor, Ishinomaki city, Miyagi prefecture. 9. Train washed onto Prefectureal Route 10, Sendai City, Miyagi prefecture. The nearest train track is 3-4km to the north. 10. Crushed crane truck outside the remains of a Lawson convenience store, Sendai city. 11. All that remains of Sakamoto station on the Joban line. I have heard that the station was evacuated before the tsunami struck. Yamamoto town, Miyagi prefecture. 12. A JR train from the Joban line crushed on top of the remains of Shinchi station, Shinchi town, Fukushima prefecture. All passengers of the train reportedly survived.
The great horse festival up in Minamisoma, Fukushima Prefecture is a three day event and the first even on the second day is the grand parade where the groups of riders ride out towards the race course and festival grounds. Each group is lead by a commander and has dozens of riders of all ages. The coastal parts of Minamisoma city was heavily damaged by the Tsunami in March last year and many of the horses were killed, so for this year the festival had to scramble to find and train new horses as replacements, I don’t think that I have ever seen such a variety of breeds and sizes in a single event before. There were super heavy draft horse mixed with retired racing horses and native Japanese ponies. There was also quite a range of riders, both kids and young men and women but also many older riders took part. The day was hot unlike anything I have ever experienced before and in the noon sun with no shadow and very little water these riders and their horses spent hours on the streets of the city. I would never have been able to survive a day like this in that armor they were wearing! Sometime around one in the afternoon I had to give it up and leave the festival ground, even though I had managed to get a special photography permission and gone all the way there from Tokyo. Instead I found a piece of tarmac that wasn’t completely in the sun and laid down for an hour and a half while drinking a couple of liters of sports drinks. Next year I will be better prepared and bring a proper parasol. More photos to come! Oh, and if you think the writing of my last post was strange, it’s because I was still suffering from pretty deep brain fry when I wrote it.
Every year in the norther prefecture of Fukushima there’s the famous and magnificent Soma Nomaoi (相馬野馬追), a huge festival involving hundreds of riders from the area of what is known today as Minamisoma. Stretching back to around the year 1060 riders have gathered on a certain field every year to test their skill and compete in combat and the skills of the mounted warrior. The festival is a massive 3 day event with parades, racing, games and test to show of the skills of the local warriors. Back in the old days this used to be the training and recruiting grounds of Japan’s finest cavalry but these days it is a little more peaceful, at least physically. I saw several samurai who were as fierce on the parade as they would have been in battle, much to the consternation of an onlooker who dared step out of line – one man was crossing the road in the middle of a group of riders on his bicycle and was actually charged by the leader of the group, I believe it’s the first time I have seen a man desperately fleeing a mounted rider on a bicycle! I made sure to stick to my side of the road and got treated to a magnificent parade of a large variety of horses, from huge draft breeds to native Japanese ponies, with riders from 6 to 90 years of age. At noon the races started, and it is some of those riders that I managed to photograph and show you today. More photos to come from this most amazing festival, and more on how Minamisoma has survived evacuation, a tsunami and a nuclear meltdown. Stay tuned!